![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6rSjp3pIknsCpgLEcyyaEt7WI2NIxY8JpC0_w63J4zUjI2Yo1GG8DzygDQbnns5c4d7_Ao27bDrIuZRUjKwTutjk3Y5Y4JJ57ZCj7IQ17YGqygp021tfizkXl6O2xxMnJv3urc1-3GDW7/s1600/ColetteTruffle1.jpg) |
Truffle front |
This dress has been an experience in hubris and not cutting corners.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD9O7J88b06FTcqQkhcBHUSPXpU-jJ-393Tt-NEz6lxcldqjBrAy-MmE4TuqDpALto8T3YgfZY8H7-RzyevdR79WyjUisvXa5Yn3J74m-43yO8bgZc_j6pwXC-n1kwVj0lNy5bSbuZlDSb/s1600/ColetteTruffle2.jpg) |
Truffle side |
At first glance the dress looks okay, but those gaping underarms will forever haunt my dreams. And the back has a little bit of bagginess by the shoulder blades. This all equates horrible in my book.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxRbHyI9bCqi-JvKo0qDNm1Ob9ezWQFSsve6dC-biqtTwO_4XBc5KzXF2JviROc5Oqq9OMGvQZTlHgP3x5FQuDE0IiauBhhOX487U7_8Ls5g5gjITSKDE4EkaLTQRxQRItgAtpefv4xWnm/s1600/ColetteTruffle3.jpg) |
Truffle back |
Two things led to this disaster. First, I lost weight since the last Colette pattern I made. With my Pastille I cut an 18 and did an 1 inch FBA. The resulting bodice was nearly perfect. But this time, I cut a size 16 for the Truffle skirt, yet still cut an 18 for the bodice, thinking this would save me a FBA. Wrong! Lesson learned, don't cut a bodice for my full bust, but go a size or two down and adjust. This way it'll fit through the shoulders and armholes. Instead, my version has gaping armholes.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkQg9cUSq6yDqYlc5Wumv6bRQH8dlJLLyfK35QHyOIzzqLLeWZS38ckABz8wbfdexdChZUGAdqcw0ZMlQKEjb5TFfnaRHTiRMnbLheJf1cgzRONRrHKxqPdoOZV2VZz3w7p5WeU9UHtRw5/s1600/ColetteTruffle5.jpg) |
You can also see the side seam pulling forwards |
The other issue was I completely forgot about the swayback adjustment I made to the Pastille. I was so eager to be sewing something again I went straight for my final fabric and decided to take care of fit issues along the way. My eventual solution was to just take 3 inches from each shoulder of the bodice back, and smooth out the curves. I didn't do anything with the darts like I should've. This meant the darts were off and the neckline was compromised.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheaUITP48Xd1X_tWU3elGO4nvsHY4_ttgVkB7G5N0K7qxwc9a99qlLmmQrdfE7JDdv1XZa25wGtA9DDsug-QaayMCOM6o7fBo4N0k4CfvneBZA48WGBrtvZ0b8Uup-b3CfeZ9GhPhhldC8/s1600/ColetteTruffle6.jpg) |
Puffy back with new neckline |
On the plus side, the Truffle's skirt fit perfectly and I used up some black twill from my stash (previously used to line the boyfriend's costume vest). The shell was a quilting fabric I bought early last year. Plus I sewed my very first invisible zipper using my new invisible zipper foot! Still partially a success.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAfuTfqrUZ9VzSP5nvUj9ikYcIN0naBh5a_L4a8K_6XFp7uICPLq5eUnyRuGia60jZF_4pIL55sR5vbmYCrTOMNY7jGA-wSOU1YPEbfU2b0LCo3vSh0x2VNgLGpc7DrvWzzBUHSMSqt5nM/s1600/ColetteTruffle7.jpg) |
Invisible zipper from the inside |
I also worked really hard on the internal finishes. This fabric frays like crazy, so I did french seams on the sides, bias tape for the back seam, and an overlock stitch for the hem.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgdEuDrQyQSChRclPCpjCg4_vQEKdy5EPxXSzZW8-VhXE6V06614i6TJY9HwEMmmqg7rwK-IbjiAO-_25YCwAVAhwBShDMNaQTFu_px3vd7vc0CAGxpb7-cai_QUxJjd5T8TGBZa9y2PNy/s1600/ColetteTruffle8.jpg) |
Bias bound back seam |
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaCNz0xyaxNt42zUQY3T-79HYeYP_kFabogD2pxxpsXFJP7MdCnhMztIiwbbfS2PblVaJkvS1nHXuGNGs1ejJG9qLUNEToqQ7IX2kAApb289cFtq5kYMArlb0BQyYYeERGFOF7LdL34pa9/s1600/ColetteTruffle9.jpg) |
French seams and hem |
Despite the fit issues I still plan on wearing the dress. I have several RTW dresses with the same gaping problem and I wear them all the time! If I'm willing to wear store bought stuff that doesn't fit quite right, why not something I worked hard on?